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Rip
Currents
For more experienced surfers,
rip currents (also called run-outs)
can be an easy way to paddle out
into the line up. The current
ends up doing most of the work
to get the surfer past the breakers.
You must be confident of your
swimming and surfing abilities
before you venture out into a
rip current.
Prepping Your Board
Put your wax on and comb it. Attach
the leash to the board at the
tail, wrap it around the tail
of the board and secure it so
you don't trip!
Various ways to carry a longboard!
1. On your head.
2. With a friend.
3. Use the wind, don't let it
push you around.
4. Dragging your board or leash
in the sand. This is not good
for your equipment.
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Prepping Yourself
1. STRETCH! Warm up neck, arms,
shoulders, wrists, waist,legs,
hamstrings, quads, knees, and
ankles.
2. STUDY THE WAVES! Diagram a
wave. Know the face, back, trough,
crest, peak, shoulder, lip, white
water, and line-up. Note sideshore
drift if there is any! Pay attention
to the sets. Note swell direction,
number of waves per set, time
period between sets (which will
help determine the best time to
paddle out!). Approximate wave
size (measured from trough to
crest in body height or feet).
FOR EVERY FOOT OF WAVE HEIGHT,
STUDY THE WAVES FOR 3 MINUTES!
Watch the peaks and note shift
because of a jetty, the bottom
contours (sand bars and sloughs),
and currents. Review run-outs.
3. BEFORE YOU PADDLE OUT, KNOW
WHETHER TIDE IS COMING IN OR GOING
OUT, ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE PARKED
ON THE BEACH!!!!!!!!!! (Unless
you want to have to buy a new
car.)
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The Paddle Out
1. Note where you are entering
the water. Look for markers on
the shore like memorable buildings,
piers, trees, things that won't
move or leave, like cars.
2. You want to stay UPDRIFT of
your board (so it won't hit you
if you loose control!)
3. Go with the drift. Don't waste
energy fighting it when you could
be surfing. Just walk back up
the beach every now and then.
Make sure your buddy stays with
you on your adventure!
4. To get out (especially with
a longboard), push the board over
the breaker by applying pressure
to the tail of the board to pop
the nose up and sink the tail.
Then, duck yourself under the
water continuing to hold onto
the tail of the board. Let the
water pass between you and the
board. More experienced shortboarders
will duck dive (but that is difficult
to explain). You could also turtle
roll, which is when you paddle
towards a breaking wave and then
turn the board over and push it
through the wave while you are
under water.
5. Paddle for valleys, around
waves when possible.
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Catching Waves
1. If you are a beginner, the
easiest way for you to catch a
wave is to have a friend or instructor
push you in.
2. The most common way to catch
a wave is to paddle into the wave
on your own. It is very important
that you LOOK BOTH WAYS before
dropping in. If you see another
surfer who is closer to the peak
paddling in, STOP paddling and
pull out of the wave.
3. Pop up. This is when the wave
just comes along and you are in
the right place at the right time.
Not much paddling is necessary.
Just remember to keep the center
of gravity low.
4. Didn't catch the first wave.
Go for the next one (2nd Effort)!
Don't jump off. DO hang on or
drop to your belly then pop up
again!
5. When and if you fall, do so
FLAT and back (a handy habit if
you're ever over reef or rocks).
Stay under water to count of 3
("one-thousand-one...", come up
slowly, arms first!
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Waveriding
1. Try to maintain contact with
your board.(Hang onto it with
your feet!) If you can't, just
stay under water for that magic
3 count and come up arms first!!
2. Learn to ride the face of the
wave. This is called trimming
the wave.
3. Regular foot is left foot forward
and right foot back. Goofy foot
is right foot forward and left
foot back. A regular footed person
will be facing the wave when going
right and have their back to the
wave (backside) when going left.
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After Your Session
1. Got a jacuuzi? A friend
with one? How about a bath tub?
Soaking away soreness can be heavenly.
2. Don't forget to stretch again.
Try 'doorway' stretches for those
pecs.
Dings
1. Sun Cure (with fiber fill)
is good for minor dings.
2. Ding Repair Wizard book will
walk you through repairing minor
dings.
3. Professional repairs are sometimes
necessary when you don't have
the knowledge or equipment to
repair your board correctly.
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Miscellaneous
1. SAND your fins down or replace
with Proteks. Fins are very sharp
and can leave a nasty scar.
2. Always carry drinking water with
you (or Kool Aid, Propel water,
Gator Aid or ANYthing you'll drink
that's not dehydrating!)
3. Keep extra sunscreen on hand
and remember to re-apply it from
time to time or pay the consequences,
Don't forget ears, neck, tops
of feet. Save front of legs for
AFTER you surf or you'll slip
every time you hit the deck.
4. LIPS need balm with SPF too,
Remember to love your lips!!!
5. Rash guards can be your best
friend for beating sunburn AND
waxrash, as well as provide some
warmth. There are many different
kinds to choose from.
6. Handy items to have on hand:
A towel or 2 (for drying and keeping
wax off your car or for between
multiple boards), a plastic bag
without holes (for putting your
wet things into), a jug of rinse
water can be so sweet (warm in
cold or wind).
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CONDITION YOURSELF BETWEEN SWELLS
IN ALL 3 WAYS:
1. CARDIOVASCULAR: Run, bike,
lifecycle, Tai Bo, whatever you
like, just get your heart rate
up and keep it there for 20-30
mins. Shoot for every day, make
it at least 3 times each week.
2. STRENGTH: Practice pop-ups,
do sit-ups, use dumb bells, weight
training machines, whatever YOU
like, 3 times a week.
3. FLEXIBILITY: STRETCH gently
and hold positions for 30 seconds.
Yoga, ballet, martial arts are
all helpful.
Cross Training
Skateboard, Wakeboard, Indo Board
(but not near a plate glass window!),
gymnastics, dance are all good!
Pop-ups are a conditioning secret!!
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