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'It'
Happened
It finally happened. After years
of questioning myself and never
having any verifiable witnesses
I visited that coveted place of
surfing ecstasy……"The Barrel".
A beautiful sunny day and plenty
of swell lent itself to a tough
paddle out, a crowded lineup, fat
lip take offs and a wave buffet.
As 'my wave' moved towards me my
heart raced. The peak was taunting
and encouraging me at the same time.
Digging in deep, as the wave crested,
my last two paddles confirmed our
connection. A quick bottom turn
forced me to hug the wall and as
I crouched down it happened.
Amazing silence and peacefulness,
how was this possible? I was moving
and still at the same time. I could
hear my backhand dragging along
the wall of the wave and I could
see the water coming over the top
of me. As quickly as it started
it was over and I shot out the tube.
Upon paddling back out to the lineup,
I realized that inside I was as
silent and peaceful as the inside
of the tube…except for the huge
smile on my face.
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