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Destinations:  New Zealand

Indo

We surfed Uluwatu today for 3 hrs and I am burnt. It was so fun the wave is a peaky left. We surfed it going to low tide so there were plenty of peaks for everyone. A huge cliff overlooks the break and we could see a panoramic view for forever. After sufing we got massages for under $2 for a 1/2 hour each and believe me it felt terrific after surfing.The waves are sooooo perfect here. We're in a room now that is $5 a day split between all 3 of us in Kuta off Poppies. It really cool, there's a pet monkey that's insane and a mongose. The rooms are killer for the price. The buildings here are so lavishly decorated. Lots of statues honoring their religion. In fact, I bought 2 killer paintings todays for $20 and they are well worth the price. We plan on heading out of here in the next day or 2 to check out a place that has waves that are within walking distance. Kuta is fun but we're here to surf.

We have just arrived back in Kuta from a week and a half long adventure. I've lost track of time but about 10 days ago we left Kuta, Bali and went to the Neighboring Island of Nusa Lombongan, South East of Bali, a short 2 hr Ferry Trip. Nusa was fun. There were a few surf breaks but we had to take boat rides to get to them. At the time there was no swell so we had to go the tiny, tiny island called Cenigan's which means "Small island" to surf. The waves were fun mostly lefts with 2 peaks all reef bottom of course. We also surfed Shipwrecks a fun right but needed more swell. When we weren't surfing we were either looking on the Hindu island for Tampons this was a 2 hour affair and most of the people didn't know what a tampon was. We were the talk of the village for a while. We also got to see a ceremony the village people held for the full moon.

It was really cool. We had to cover ourselves and there was a lot of incense burned. Holy People over an intercom singing really sounded more like moaning for like 2 hours. Everybody was dressed in colorful robes and prayed cross-legged on the ground for the whole ceremony. On the way back we walked through their village. We were seriously in a National Geographic Video. The people lived in huts on the beach with no electric or water that we could see. The people on Nusa make their living off harvesting seaweed and tourists. This island was not very touristy either.

After 3 days of surfing small waves we girls decided to have a ceremony of our own. We wanted waves so each of us sacrificed some item of value to us Joc a tampon, Noelle toilet paper Kim dyed her hair pink and I burned one of my only pair of knickers (under panties). Our Australian friend Dave brought the incense, some locals came and chanted as we played Jimmy Buffet "Mother Mother Ocean" and made a fire of our stuff. And man when I busted out the panties those Indo's went crazy shouting dancing and laughing. It was truly a classic moment. We have video footage. The next day we left on a boat trip for a week ($200 each on a super nice boat everything included) and that night when we were at Desert Point on the island of Lombok the Swell Hit. It went from shoulder high to way overhead barrels by the next morning (6-8ft and 2 hrs later 8-10ft). The tides really effect the swell here. We had some great waves. Although wave selection was very important, we definitely had our fair share of spankings this past week.

Desert Point was incredible it is supposedly and arguably the best left in the world. When it's on, it throws a perfect Left tube for a few hundred yards. Next we went to Scar Reef on Sumbawa and man that place is unreal. The wave is super powerful. Although it looked harmless enough when we paddled out, it was gnarly. We have more footage on that. . .it speaks for itself. The swell was definitely pumping by then. It was bigger than we felt comfortable with, but we were able to surf a smaller break next to Scar's. I kissed some coral over there and have had to layoff surfing for a coupe of days. Now my wounds are healing and I'm good to go. The boat trip was killer. There were Aussies and Japs on the boat with us, and we made friends, and it was all good. We saw some incredible surf I think we may have prayed a little toooo hard at that ceremony but none the less it was a great time. Hangin' with the locals has been fun.

Well we've been back in Kuta for a few days. The swell has been fun, a good clean 4 - 8ft. We have mainly been surfing a break called Middles, which is to the left of Kuta Reef. It is a killer left hander wave with a deep reef bottom (which is good for me). Yesterday we had a great session it was 4-6 and perfect PLUS Luke, Bridget, Jocelyn, and I had the break all to ourselves. We had our pick of the litter out there and it was a blast. There is a swell coming in a few days and rumor has it it's the biggest in 5yrs but you know how those surf stories go. We'll see what happens and if anything does we'll see it from the beach. We'll go to Padang Padang to watch. That is a sick barreling left on southern Bali. It only breaks a couple of times a year so we may be in for a treat. We have plenty of video material to use. Everything is mellow and the surf has been super fun.

We are going to exted our trip a bit and go to Oz (Australia). We leave on the 27th and we're going to work our way up the coast to the Gold Coast. Indo is still fun. The power is out in our bungalow and on the street. The waves have been fun. We surfed Dreamland the other day and it was unreal. It's an A-frame wave on a beautiful desolate beach. Mostly, we've been surfing a place called Middles in Kuta. We've also been gorging ourselves with sushi every night. At $3 a meal, how can we resist!

Check out the article on Oz to hear about the rest of the trip!




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