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We
surfed Uluwatu today for 3 hrs and
I am burnt. It was so fun the wave
is a peaky left. We surfed it going
to low tide so there were plenty
of peaks for everyone. A huge cliff
overlooks the break and we could
see a panoramic view for forever.
After sufing we got massages for
under $2 for a 1/2 hour each and
believe me it felt terrific after
surfing.The waves are sooooo perfect
here. We're in a room now that is
$5 a day split between all 3 of
us in Kuta off Poppies. It really
cool, there's a pet monkey that's
insane and a mongose. The rooms
are killer for the price. The buildings
here are so lavishly decorated.
Lots of statues honoring their religion.
In fact, I bought 2 killer paintings
todays for $20 and they are well
worth the price. We plan on heading
out of here in the next day or 2
to check out a place that has waves
that are within walking distance.
Kuta is fun but we're here to surf.
We
have just arrived back in Kuta from
a week and a half long adventure.
I've lost track of time but about
10 days ago we left Kuta, Bali and
went to the Neighboring Island of
Nusa Lombongan, South East of Bali,
a short 2 hr Ferry Trip. Nusa was
fun. There were a few surf breaks
but we had to take boat rides to
get to them. At the time there was
no swell so we had to go the tiny,
tiny island called Cenigan's which
means "Small island" to surf. The
waves were fun mostly lefts with
2 peaks all reef bottom of course.
We also surfed Shipwrecks a fun
right but needed more swell. When
we weren't surfing we were either
looking on the Hindu island for
Tampons this was a 2 hour affair
and most of the people didn't know
what a tampon was. We were the talk
of the village for a while. We also
got to see a ceremony the village
people held for the full moon.
It
was really cool. We had to cover
ourselves and there was a lot of
incense burned. Holy People over
an intercom singing really sounded
more like moaning for like 2 hours.
Everybody was dressed in colorful
robes and prayed cross-legged on
the ground for the whole ceremony.
On the way back we walked through
their village. We were seriously
in a National Geographic Video.
The people lived in huts on the
beach with no electric or water
that we could see. The people on
Nusa make their living off harvesting
seaweed and tourists. This island
was not very touristy either.
After
3 days of surfing small waves we
girls decided to have a ceremony
of our own. We wanted waves so each
of us sacrificed some item of value
to us Joc a tampon, Noelle toilet
paper Kim dyed her hair pink and
I burned one of my only pair of
knickers (under panties). Our Australian
friend Dave brought the incense,
some locals came and chanted as
we played Jimmy Buffet "Mother Mother
Ocean" and made a fire of our stuff.
And man when I busted out the panties
those Indo's went crazy shouting
dancing and laughing. It was truly
a classic moment. We have video
footage. The next day we left on
a boat trip for a week ($200 each
on a super nice boat everything
included) and that night when we
were at Desert Point on the island
of Lombok the Swell Hit. It went
from shoulder high to way overhead
barrels by the next morning (6-8ft
and 2 hrs later 8-10ft). The tides
really effect the swell here. We
had some great waves. Although wave
selection was very important, we
definitely had our fair share of
spankings this past week.
Desert
Point was incredible it is supposedly
and arguably the best left in the
world. When it's on, it throws a
perfect Left tube for a few hundred
yards. Next we went to Scar Reef
on Sumbawa and man that place is
unreal. The wave is super powerful.
Although it looked harmless enough
when we paddled out, it was gnarly.
We have more footage on that. .
.it speaks for itself. The swell
was definitely pumping by then.
It was bigger than we felt comfortable
with, but we were able to surf a
smaller break next to Scar's. I
kissed some coral over there and
have had to layoff surfing for a
coupe of days. Now my wounds are
healing and I'm good to go. The
boat trip was killer. There were
Aussies and Japs on the boat with
us, and we made friends, and it
was all good. We saw some incredible
surf I think we may have prayed
a little toooo hard at that ceremony
but none the less it was a great
time. Hangin' with the locals has
been fun.
Well we've been back in Kuta for
a few days. The swell has been fun,
a good clean 4 - 8ft. We have mainly
been surfing a break called Middles,
which is to the left of Kuta Reef.
It is a killer left hander wave
with a deep reef bottom (which is
good for me). Yesterday we had a
great session it was 4-6 and perfect
PLUS Luke, Bridget, Jocelyn, and
I had the break all to ourselves.
We had our pick of the litter out
there and it was a blast. There
is a swell coming in a few days
and rumor has it it's the biggest
in 5yrs but you know how those surf
stories go. We'll see what happens
and if anything does we'll see it
from the beach. We'll go to Padang
Padang to watch. That is a sick
barreling left on southern Bali.
It only breaks a couple of times
a year so we may be in for a treat.
We have plenty of video material
to use. Everything is mellow and
the surf has been super fun.
We are going to exted our trip a
bit and go to Oz (Australia). We
leave on the 27th and we're going
to work our way up the coast to
the Gold Coast. Indo is still fun.
The power is out in our bungalow
and on the street. The waves have
been fun. We surfed Dreamland the
other day and it was unreal. It's
an A-frame wave on a beautiful desolate
beach. Mostly, we've been surfing
a place called Middles in Kuta.
We've also been gorging ourselves
with sushi every night. At $3 a
meal, how can we resist!
Check out the article on Oz
to hear about the rest of the trip!
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